Gen Next: A show you cannot miss this season!
January 25th, 2012 by Jasmeen Dugal
Jasmeen Dugal

Designers have brilliant inspiration (Banyan tree), creative design aesthetic (weaving wooden carving into the garments) and The Gen Next category at Lakme Fashion Week is exceptionally important and where I have witnessed many a miracle. There is so much young talent that needs to be supported and nurtured to ensure we are building brands and businesses for the future. Last night I poured over the sketches and blogs of all Gen Next designers and it felt great to see out-of-the-box ideas within the realm of wearibility. Here’s a guide to what you can expect!

TANYA SHARMA

I am a white shirt addict. Crisp button-down white shirts are a wardrobe staple and I feel every girl must have at least one. So when Tanya Sharma told me she would be showcasing white shirts with a touch of fabulous I knew it would be an interesting showing! Let’s be honest ladies: we’re all looking for a way to stand out from the pack! “I have taken the classic white shirt and infused it with street wear elements reminiscent of Pop culture. The aim is to transcend the conservative look into a space that is subtly influenced by genres like hip hop, rock and roll and street dance. I have some classic button-down shirts in bright colors and floral prints too”, she tells me. You can be sure now that you won’t see a dozen girls in the same white shirt and that’s a huge plus in my book!

MEGHA GARG

She has wooed NIFT and courted Central Saint Martin’s. Now, Megha Garg has her eyes set on Lakme Fashion Week. Her strongest weapon? Digital prints on cocktail dresses! Hey it takes a special kind of lady to carry off the strong digital prints that left their mark on the autumn winter 2011-12 catwalks and not all of us have that je ne sais quoi. This season Megha attempts a softer-edged look: “I have designed dresses with carefully placed colors digitally printed on the fabric. One of the dresses has been made with five layers of fabric and the silhouette of another follows the contour of the body”. Most editors feel the popularity of digital prints lies in optical gratification. Won’t you spontaneusly smile if you look in the mirror and are greeted with a colourful burst of patterns? There is also a touch of luxe about an attention-grabbing look that cocks a sartorial snook at the style police… so it will be interesting to see how Megha garg showcases this trend!

MANOJ AND VINOD

How many young commercial appeal (convertible versatile garments) this season? Possibly only designer duo Manoj and Vinod: the latest up-and-comers to showcase at Lakme Fashion Week! “Commercially, the collection should be successful as it is designed with low-priced raw fabric and is also versatile as each garment can be worn in more than two ways! We have taken Infinity as our theme… inspired from the Banyan tree,” they tell me. Look out for the rope jacket that is fully hand weaved with wooden carving and the handkerchief draped garments!

ARCHANA RAO

NIFT and Parsons School of Design, New York graduate Archana Rao certainly knows her menswear from valuable experiece at an export house and should have no trouble giving it a girlish twist! She couldn’t have chosen a seasonal better theme! Menswear-inspired looks dominated the past few seasons and the trend meter is now shifting to a hybrid of boyish look-meets-girlish grace. “This collection is inspired by menswear and pays close attention to accidental design like crisp folds and ombre effects. High-tech fabrics are contrasted with traditional textiles for a deliberate course feel and structured clothing appears fluid with the use of oversized garments and soft palette”, says Archana. Indeed, there is something appealingly easy about the looks in her sketches—you might want to start making a little more space in your closet now!

SHIKHA AND VINITA

There is nothing simple about this designer duo’s collection. Pushing the envelope on their very first Fashion Week outing, it would be interesting to see how these girls bring the complex multi-layered theme to life. Just ask Shikha and Vinita and the excitement is plain: “We like using simple materials and teasing out-of-the-box designs out of them! The designs must be wearable and at the same time take a leap in aesthetics. Using the butterfly metamorphosis as a theme, our collection is an allegory of the transition and creation of a new style of design and sub culture…” Look out for the knot dress under a cape that glows in dark signifying the possibilities that the future holds for the butterfly being formed within the chrysalis and the cocktail dress with a structured back and shoulders and a sheer draped lower,which represent a developed butterfly!

YOGESH CHAUDHARY

This young man has several credits. After graduating from NIFT with a specialization in knitwear and Masters at NID, he was awarded ‘Emerging Designer’ at Van Heusen Men’s Week and was the first Asian to bag Supreme Award at the World of Wearable Art, New Zealand. His winning garment ‘Loops’ (2010) and ‘Juxta’ (2011) were acquired for display at the World of Wearable Art Museum! “I am a firm believer of wearability in fashion. My theme is “In A Box”: a ready-to-wear line of separates, dresses and few Indian pieces focusing on box-pleats with stripes. Since I am a big fan of crafts, one of my outfits pays a tribute to the mirror work technique from Gujarat and is made solely of mirrors while another favorite is a dress crafted from the finest cotton in powder-blue stripes and asymmetric hem with a box-pleated trail and in it is almost homage to ’60s futurism,” he tells me with a gleam in his eyes.

Remember these names, people! Don’t miss their incredible designs!


Boxed Out
January 20th, 2012 by Yogesh Chaudhary
Yogesh Chaudhary

A long time ago, a very wise woman once said that “In order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different.” The woman then went on to change the way the world looked at every woman in that generation. Such was the force of her conviction that she toppled some of the greatest thinking minds in fashion. Her name and lineage is still looked towards as perhaps one of the most recognizable and powerful forces to reckon with in fashion. Her name was Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. I often find myself pondering over those famous words, wondering if I am indeed irreplaceable. For my first collection on a SERIOUS runway, the GenNext programme at Lakme Fashion Week, I have been working within mundane outlines (stripes and pleats), and trying to create not-so-mundane outfits. As I move forward everyday with new silhouettes wanting to break in, and new fabrics demanding attention, it has been exhilarating to say the least, to attempt to create a cohesive collection with unique outfits. The uniqueness is not as much a challenge as trying to control an overflow of ideas. Yet the adrenalin rush of cutting and tailoring outfits everyday is indescribable, almost as ‘rushing’ as it was my first time bungee jumping.

However, reverting back to Ms Chanel’s famous words, while trying to stay minimal (as minimal as you can be with an interest in Indianwear), it is proving to be very rewarding, being “different”. I often find myself drawing from my roots in Haryana, subtle referencing of which might not be visible to the naked-eye. Yet as days transform into weeks in a blink, I am now constantly running against traffic signals, from printers, to dyers, to fabric suppliers, to my sketchbook. Even dreams are now occupied with visions of floating stripes and pleats in space.

All in all, I would say that my collection is on track, and is shaping up exactly as I had envisioned, even as it evolves every time I sit alone with my sketchbook. I only hope Ms Chanel would approve, and find it “irreplaceable”.


The Gen Next….
January 18th, 2012 by Pradeep Hirani - Chairman, Kimaya Fashions Private Limited
Pradeep Hirani - Chairman, Kimaya Fashions Private Limited

Lakmé Fashion Week has always been ahead of the curve and a strong supporter of fresh energy. Every year nearly 2500 students pass out of fashion schools, passionate about being designers – they have the zeal and the creativity, what they lack is proper guidance and platform to showcase their ability. Being one of the most prestigious fashion weeks in India – Lakmé Fashion Week is the best stage to display their thought-process and prowess, and it has done just that. We have got some amazing talent through this initiative of LFW – Nachiket Barve, Rahul Mishra, Masaba, Prashant Verma, Vineet Bahl and Rimzim Dadu bear testimony to this. In my capacity as the Board Member of LFW and CMD Kimaya, I have always attempted to make sure that Upcoming Talent gets their due. They are the future of Indian Fashion Industry, if we don’t nurture them now; we put our future at stake!

India has some amazing creativity and in addition we have a rich heritage of crafts and culture. Some of the applications for this season showed an intriguing use of dying Indian arts and others took a plunge at European styles in a very contemporary fashion. I have a lot of hope from the young designers, based on which, I have always promoted India as a strong contender of next Fashion Capital of the World.

This season’s Gen Next Designers are very promising! Young designers besides being creative also have a commercial bend of mind. They have reached the inflection point much before their predecessors. All seven of them had a diverse portfolio on offer, giving a breath of fresh air to Indian fashion. When you are young, your thought process is naïve, so you dare to experiment. Once established, you develop your style and think around in boundaries; hence it’s always a pleasure to see a Gen Next Designer’s creation on the ramp.

Indian customer is coming off-age, they now demand for global Fashion and style. They want fresh stuff; they are done with buying same embroideries and surface ornamentations for ages. Hence Gen Next Designers should keep in mind the commercial viability of their merchandise. They should understand the Indian consumer psyche and make clothes that flatter their personality. Despite the liberalization and global exposure, Indian customers are little hesitant in experimenting – especially with the silhouettes. For example, off late a lot of beach-wear designers coming up with focussed collections, but their sales in India are limited. So, if you want to run business, give customers what they want, rather than give them what you want!

According to me, Indian fashion is still in its embryonic state, the growth can be traced back to the last ten years. Indian fashion has seen tremendous growth in the last one decade, be it the fashion institutes from where over 25,000 students pass out every year, or the number of serious fashion media publications that has gone up by 700%, from one fashion week; today we have over 12 fashion weeks in the country, from a handful of known designers in the ‘90s, we have over 300 designers today. This is the India story, one that the world is paying attention to. The world is looking India-wards. With Chanel doing an entire collection of 72 pieces with India as an inspiration there is no doubt in this. Dior, Hermes and so many other luxury brands have taken to this route – Canali’s Nawab Jacket, Ermenegildo Zegna’s Guru Jacket, Hermes’s Special Saree collection and Judith Leiber’s India-inspired Limited Edition collection are just some of the examples.

The luxury designer wear apparel market in India is pegged at INR 1000 cr; and is growing at a healthy rate of about 22-23% YOY. We believe that it has the potential to escalate to Rs.5000 crores in the next five years. A projected grow rate of 30-35 percent per annum is easily achievable. Though the size of the Indian Luxury Apparel market is small, but the potential is immense and it is going to grow exponentially over the years. The metro cities are saturated, now the brands are shifting focus to pocket-rich middle class sitting in tier-2 cities. That is where the focus is right now and will be for next decade.

India is unique and so are its fashion requirements. There being a north -south divide in the topography and the climatic conditions across the country, the fashion needs of inmates are also divided. While Delhi may observe harsh winters and people there will need woollens and knits; Mumbai or Chennai will remain warmer and hence mixed fabrics will continue to do well there. However, India is also the land of celebrations and during the months of August to December, the festive needs of fashoinistas nationwide are common.

The best advice I can give for the upcoming designers is to try and attain equilibrium between commercial viability and creativity. We need fresh fashion, but we need fashion that sells. Try and read pulse of the market and make clothes accordingly. Our hopes for being the next fashion capital of the world lie on your shoulders!


GenNext duo’s diary
January 13th, 2012 by Vinita and Shikha
Vinita and Shikha

How we felt about getting through Lakmé Gen Next? Euphoric! This would be a great way to get started. We created ILK a year ago, and we were keeping our fingers crossed as this was our second attempt. Luckily the response was prompt, and while we had a reason to clink glasses, we also got down to our worktables immediately.

Two year ago we were colleagues at Cue. Fortunately, we recognised a chance to work together, to create something completely new and freshly imagined. And so, ILK was born.

At ILK, we use simple materials and tease crazy ideas out of them. We pretty much do most of our work together. We seem to get the best results when we share our insights. The main thing is we want to create. We want to explore ideas further and further. Our designs are not just aimed at success in the market. We must ourselves like what we make. The designs must be wearable and at the same time take a leap in aesthetics. We have different views about things, but as a team we try to develop rather than disagree with each other’s ideas.

Lakmé Fashion Week is a fabulous opportunity that inspires and fuels hard work. We are eager to showcase our designs and find our place among other emerging designers, senior designers and also get in touch with important business members of the fashion fraternity.

Our collection for LFW is called ‘I lose myself’. It is inspired by the different stages of butterfly metamorphosis. Focusing on development and transition, it is about a state in which one is only concerned with changes happening to self. One is full of wonder at one’s own existence. The collection reflects freedom and experimentation as one is yet not complete but still exploring all that they can become.

This sense of transformation is seen in our collection through staples of casual women’s wear. With each design, more function and complexity are added. With anatomical exploration at the core, our clothing explores the different ways in which the body chooses to articulate itself. The clothes mirror body movement, celebrate form, and add that sense of identity that one transforming so needs.


Sind Sie Bereit??
January 11th, 2012 by Kallol Datta
Kallol Datta

I’ve been pretty vocal about the fact that if my label had to be showcased elsewhere, Berlin would be in my top 3 cities to display my line. Imagine my surprise when the call came for the ‘Berlin Calling’ show for Lakme Fashion Week. Fast forward to November 2011 when I got to know that Aneeth and I would be showing at Mercedes – Benz Fashion Week at Berlin; there wasn’t a drop of alcohol left in Kolkata that night. I debuted at Lakme Fashion Week with my Spring Summer 2008 collection and it has been an amazing road trip of sorts.  The Gen Next program is and will always be my favourite show to watch. I’ve never recovered from that jolt of adrenalin which I experienced during my Gen Next show.

Next week at this time in Berlin, my show is about to be staged. With every collection there comes the apprehension of whether the viewing audience will ‘get my clothes’ and ‘understand my point of view’. The same holds true for ‘XOXO’ my Autumn Winter 2012-13 line. No gimmicks, no added doses of stereotypical ‘extra Indian-ness’ just because it’s being showcased in Berlin.  The collection is about love; sweet, sugary, nauseating love and the global confident Indian woman. Bright jewel toned colours and motifs as well as intricate hand embroidery paying homage to the Paisley – all Kallol Datta 1955 staples will be on view.

A lot of hard work, stress (which leads to graying hair and/or hair falling out) and communication is involved in the run up to a show. IMGR and its international divisions have made a seemingly daunting task approachable, and have been prompt at resolving any queries, problems and the likes. Here’s hoping to a super season ahead!


Pro•logue
January 6th, 2012 by Archana Rao
Archana Rao

It is rare in any field that upcoming talent is recognized and Gen Next is a wonderful and much-needed initiative by LFW to give budding designers an opportunity to showcase their work on this very promising platform. It is very encouraging for me to know that my work was appreciated and recognized by the esteemed panel of judges at LFW. Aki Narula is my mentor and I’m glad that someone whose work I respect and follow is mentoring me. He made some very insightful points about my collection and I’m looking forward to learning more from him.

Right now I’m just running from pillar to post to get things done, time seems like it is moving faster, days seem shorter and the traffic seems to get worse every time I need something done! I want my debut at LFW to be perfect and memorable and I don’t want to leave anything to chance so I’m paying close attention to detail.

My collection focuses on minimalist trends which are more useful and efficient and pays close attention to accidental design which is a major part of this androgynous theme. An ultra simplistic style will emerge focusing on hidden details and timeless silhouettes.

I am ecstatic about making it to Lakme Fashion Week, and it means a lot to me and to those who support me. Given that LFW is the premiere stage for fashion in India, I feel proud to be a part of it. My collection is aptly titled Pro•logue because this is my debut collection and I am looking forward to a lot more to come.


Gen Next- the Dream Weaver by Megha Garg
January 5th, 2012 by Megha Garg
Megha Garg

It was a usual December morning; I was working on my designs for a freelance work, when I received a call. It was a Mumbai number, which I wasn’t familiar with. Nervous with anticipation, I took the call. And there came the biggest news that I had been waiting to hear since long. I had been selected to showcase my collection as a part of Gen Next in Lakmé Fashion Week.  Bang!

I froze with excitement, hardly able to react to the news. I wanted to jump, laugh, shout but to no avail. I called up my close friends and informed them still unable to grasp the feeling. Very soon people started calling to congratulate, mails came in for the requirement for the show, and things were moving too fast.  I wanted to sit and analyze what was happening, when I received another call. It was from Aki Narula!!! One of my favourite designers! I seriously needed someone to pinch me!

Aki being the Gen Next mentor spoke to me about the shoot he was planning to do for the Gen Next designers with Elle, discussed about the collection which I wanted to showcase and gave some tips on what works for the buyers. It was a very comforting conversation to understand what is expected and what needs to be done. The exciting day came to an end and I finally sat with myself to look back at the journey I took to get to this day-

It had been three months in November 2011 that I had come back from London after finishing my Graduate Diploma in Fashion from Central Saint Martin’s. I always wanted to start my own line and wanted to launch it in the best way. What better way than to do it through Gen Next at Lakmé Fashion Week!

As the registrations for the application were open in November, I registered myself to give a chance for my dream to take shape. It being my first application to Gen Next and practically no work experience, I had doubts about my selection. I chose to work on the theme-Aura, which I did for my final collection in CSM, as it was something which I loved doing. Aura as a theme excited me due to its mystic elements and the colourful concoction of fantasy. I had felt that something that I did with my heart in it, should earn good result. So, I decided to send the garments made in London for my final collection, for the selection process. The result- we all know.

Now that it’s just two months to the show, I am trying hard to complete the collection way before the deadline. I do not want to settle on any design till it’s thoroughly worked out. I am trying to source fabrics from different cities and working on alternate and new garment finishes.

Launching the label under my name at the best platform of the country is a dream come true. Gen Next at Lakmé Fashion Week is the only platform in the country which recognizes young designer’s talent and not only gives an opportunity to showcase the work but also supports the designers with experienced team of people to achieve the best. All in all, Gen Next is  the perfect platform, where a young designer can weave its dreams into reality and I am happy to get one woven!


GAGA GOES TO GEN NEXT
December 30th, 2011 by Tanya Sharma
Tanya Sharma

Getting “The Call” from LFW that I got through Gen Next was probably one of the best moments of my life. To be honest, I in fact wasn’t planning to apply for this season. Preparing for my application was a lot of fun for me. My design concept was focused on transforming the classic white shirt into fun outfits using a lot of street Indian fabrics. I like my clothes to have a little bit of humour. I still remember the day I had to send the application, it was super hectic. I reached the IMGR office with my application at seven in the evening, handed over the stuff to Amtosh and ran from there because I was very nervous.

The day I got a call that I had got selected I was so ecstatic. The following day when Aki called, I couldn’t stop blushing because when I was in NIFT, he was someone I used to admire for his work and now he called and said “my clothes were cool”. He gave me some excellent feedback and told me to work on the next few pieces. I have really put in extra effort for my designs so I can present something new and fresh for Gen Next. I have started working on my show outfits and my first piece is ready!!

LFW is probably the only platform for young designers in our country. I have seen my own classmates like Aneeth Arora and Swapnil Shinde benefit so much from LFW. Gen Next is probably the best concept our Indian fashion fraternity has come up with as it encourages and pushes young designers to break the commercial aspect of fashion and take that extra leap to create something new. My future plans are to keep working harder and keep creating. I have visualised the Gen Next show in my head a several times. Showing at LFW is a dream come true for me.


IT’S OVER SO SOON!
August 24th, 2011 by MEHER CASTELINO - Fashion Consultant and Writer
MEHER CASTELINO - Fashion Consultant and Writer

Fashion weeks are full of excitement, speed and style for five full days and when they end there is a major vacuum in my life. LakméFashion Week Winter/Festive 2011 ended a few days ago and the energy and high blitz of fashion has left me completely satiated.

The off-site Tote show by Rohit Bal was a visual experience of unbelievable craftsmanship and design. How does this man dream up such creations is beyond my comprehension! Each was a work of art that should be preserved.

On the other end, the Grand Finale by Manish Malhotra inspired by the Lakmé ABSOLUTE line of colour cosmetics with the gorgeous Kareena ‘Bebo’ Kapoor as theface of the brand and the show stopper of the evening; was a superb end to LakméFashion Week Winter/Festive 2011. The gorgeouscreations by the “Badshah of Bollywood Couture” were breathtaking as they floated down the glass covered ramp.

The most important event that had the media in atizzy was the launch of the Lakmé ABSOLUTE range especially created for the Indianwoman with Kareena Kapoor as the face of the brand in person giving her views on her favourites. I had a close look at the eyeliner, foundation, lipstick from the Lakmé ABSOLUTE brand and I loved the way I looked after applying them. I am waiting impatiently for October when it will be available in the stores.

The Gen Next Show which opened LFW W/F 2011 had some quirky, creative timeless creations. Fashion will surely see these new designer names more often in the future.

With festive as the theme of the week,bridal wear took centre stage for most designers in all its glittering glory. J J Valaya’s‘Tasveer’ collection proved he had his finger firmly on the buyers’ pulse.

Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s colourful ethnic presentation by 48 models proved that style and wearability are synonymous. Wendell Rodricks’ ethereal Himalayan Fine Natural Water Collection was a fluid line of pastel creations -high on construction and style.
What really rocked and was thecentre of activity was ‘The Source’ where the designers’ stalls were located along with a separate daily presentation by 13 labels at the Talent Box shows. These shows revealed names like TV actor Shama Sikander, Isabelle Mittal, Payal Kothari, Prashant and Sudha as the new labels to look out for.

Buying was on with Wendell Rodricks taking orders for most of his garments and Sabyasachi selling out most ofhis collection.

The Live Max Bupa LFW TV was an interesting innovative concept online as well as at the venue with anchor, Bandana Tiwari grabbing the designers to reveal their inspirations.

The Future of Fashion show presented by DHL had Nachiket Barve, Little Shilpa and Swapnil Shinde working around the theme “Speed” associated with DHL and each was amazing as colour, creativity and style floated down the ramp.

The Berlin Calling show featuring Aneeth Arora and Kallol Datta 1855 was diverse in fashion but one of these two will be the lucky one to show at the Mercedes Benz Berlin Fashion Week in 2012. Wonder who it will be? I would send both if I had my way.

The demand for show invites was as constant as phone calls, sms messages and emails bombarded the Genesis PR Team ad even I was not spared. “Please get us invites” was a refrain I shut my ears to and tried to disappear into the wood work.

So it’s back to the normal mundane life.  The 12 noon to midnight, five hectic days, which gave me a great adrenaline rush,are over. If I have withdrawal symptoms, I will just log onto the LFW W/F 2011 site and drool over the collection pictures and videos again.


Trend Gold Festive 2011
August 22nd, 2011 by Harilein Sabarwal
Harilein Sabarwal


Sparkle, shine and scintillate this season with the Gold glittered age. Gold being a symbol of prosperity and wealth, also symbolizes spiritual richness with its aura indicating enlightenment and it indeed is a treasure beyond compare.

After a season of cool metal popularity, such as platinum and silver, gold is back in vogue. Not just subtle, understated gold, but the kind of flashy pieces has been unleashed. Gold is henceforth making a huge fashion comeback in makeup, jewelry, and especially, apparel popping up as sequins, mesh, brocade, knits, lace and flowy satins.

Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011 saw a highly glamorous show presented by Pria Kataaria Puri in her collection inspired from Persia and 1970’s punk era. The silhouettes included slender gowns with fluid swirling blouses with batwing sleeves and kaftans, kurtas, backless tops, tiny silver bikinis with draped covers and a dazzling gold moulded sheeted mini. , Gold gilded ribbons and cord work inspired from the Persian embroidery were the key prints used on soft, flowy silks, chiffons, crepes and silk Lycra. The collection with all its glitter, glitz and glamour was more dazzled with the gold Veruschka shoes showcasing the Gold trend.

An utterly impressive and glamorous collection showcased by Rina Dhaka for Lakme Winter/Festive 2011 also saw the golden touch in the chic contemporary styles. Gotta work, plisse and metallics were an unusual mix; while tulle and lace were used lavishly with intricate sitara work. Continuous flashes of vintage metallic embellishments for stylish evening wear made a striking impact.

The dazzling and opulent bridal collection presented by Payal Singhal was absolutely stunning glittering with crystals, polkis and vintage embroidery. Shimmering New Age metallic fabrics were teamed with soft pretty pastels and embellished with the richness of mukaish, filigree, resham and zardozi work.

Let the sparkle of Gold shine as the sheen of the fashion this festive season.