Strap: When it comes to accessories, excess is the way to go this season. Whether they’re the traditional kinds or the funky finds, every accessory has a story to tell. Here’s the best of the best from the Lakme Fashion Week this year. By Latha Sunadh

While Indian jewellery made its way beautifully into our weddings and festivities, we somehow see them only as cultural contraband. This year though, Lakme Fashion Week Summer / Resort 2012 made sure that jewellery acquired iconic status in our own wardrobes. From over-the-top excesses to subtle-as-ever trinkets, from brightly-coloured earrings to tangled intricacies – jewellery definitely was the hero this year. Heck, it could even give the outfit a run for its money. So here’s what I loved and adored on the ramps this season and why some of them, totally rocked my world.

Gaga by Tanya Sharma

Traditional south-indian extravagance – that’s probably Tanya Sharma’s tagline this season as she showcased some really heavy jewellery ideas this summer. Tanya used Indian fabrics to create the look – add Chennai lungis, Rajasthani odhanis, traditional ikat and net embroidery and you have a lookbook that’s avant garde yet sublime. The perfect amalgamation of varied techniques and rich traditional Indian textiles – this collection also showcased some great jewellery. Not as an afterthought, but as a welcome addition to the entire look. The jewellery was beautifully bold, dynamic and essentially excessive. As yellow as gold, the collection showcased gold goddess-like kamarbandhs, big and bold cuffs, Kerala kasu malas, gold chokers, maang tikas, south-indian mangal sutras and heavy gold bangles.

Eina Ahluwalia

India’s first conceptual jewellery artist, Eina Ahluwalia never fails to impress. It’s the way she approaches her subject – slowly yet accurately culling out a newer identity every single time. Titled “Forgotten Jewel”, her collection was so very surreal – with the jewel egg that opened the show. Her collection had all the trappings of melodrama – rock motifs, big and bold cigarette box pendants and golden eggs – each revealing a picture of beauty and elegance. Perhaps the idea came through even more strongly with the red giant heart pendant that came with veins and nerves gleaming under the ramp lights. My favourite piece? The chunks of gold centre pieces worn with multi strands of coral. Beauty and raw energy- wrapped into one!

Malini Agarwalla

The queen of accessories, mostly Indian accessories – the label Malaga has always been the best addition to an Indian woman’s wardrobe. Whether it’s the carefully handcrafted zardosi bags, the ethnic belts, Indian footwear or the ever-reliant indian costume jewellery – Malini’s rich embellishments are fashionable oxymorons – talk about mixing and matching silk brocade, velvet with beads, jute juxtaposed with denims – it’s a heady cocktail of sorts if you ask me. But mostly, her interestingly created custom handmade jeweled handbags just do it for me. This time though, she went into a more innovative and ethnic zone – Africa. Inspired by the Zulu kingdom KwaZulu Natal of South Africa, the “KwaZulu” collection was a colour-crazy extravaganza guaranteed to put a spring in your step this season. The Aztec, tribal and geometric embroidery and beadwork is so alluring, and is perfect for a stylish day in the sun. The bold bib necklaces and gold chokers along with the super heavy graphic pendants are the toast of this season – and I can’t wait to wear them on summer separates. I’d like to call them body armour – just what is needed on a boring Monday morning.

Nitya Arora

Valliyan by Nitya Arora has always been a favourite of mine – and I bought my very first one at Ensemble two years back. The way in which Nitya works with traditional motifs to create avant garde pieces is admirable – perfect for bespoke personalities. The collection titled ‘Up’ said it all – the looks this season were so fashion forward and quirky. Being inspired by New York isn’t new for Nitya – an alumnus of Parsons but her collection created an altogether different personality – almost like the new-age liberty lady. The mix had a bit of semi precious stones  a la emeralds, aquamarines, and amethysts, working with bold new materials – porcelain, brass, wood and glass – now that’s innovation.  The candy beads, fun retro sunglasses and sexy beaded kamarbandhs gave this collection a fun appeal. The bags were my favourites though – simple, clean and minimalistic – they were chic and stylish – some very very functional.

Suhani Pittie

Curator of precious ideas, contemporary interpreter of unique jewellery and full-time design entrepreneur, Suhani Pittie knows her precious stones very well. The new collection aptly named “Child of Eden” kept the torch burning bright this time too with intricate designs and interesting craftsmanship. The jewellery was nonetheless exquisite – with reflections of the Bidri star print and the Chand Bali filigree work. As traditional as it can get – yet so avant garde. The pieces were one-of-a-kind with nature as inspiration – and so you saw, delicate leaves, entwining vines, pretty roses, swan’s wings, thebeautiful peacock motifs, Hornbill delicacy and the beauty of the spiral rivet. Every woman must have at least one piece from this collection that can be reclaimed as heritage – the mod-art pieces, Grecian influences and unconventional ideas like filigree kamarbandhs. The bidri work was astounding as was the copper-plated filigree work. I loved the coin-embellished cuffs that were stacked one upon the other and this season’s biggest bet – the filigree belt was beautiful beyond belief.

Shivan & Narresh

Shivan and Narresh caught my eyes a long time ago. How else can I explain my obsession with made-to-measure swimsuits? Brilliant and perfect for the Indian body, these designers are of course, the pioneers of the new age swimsuit in India today. Their cuts, fabrics and colours are subtle, elegant and quirky – all in one go. But that’s not why I am waxing eloquent about them; it’s the side order of fun necklaces that have been pushing themselves into my wishlist every season. Their latest collection, Mosaic this season is all about colour blocking, subtle and easy summer ideas. This time couture married swimwear and lo, you have a new line called “Handcraft”,that came with innovative surface textures and hi-tech touches. The rhinestone graphic necklaces have always been their staple – but this time, the colours popped out and were accompanied by the awesome-ly striking skeletal lampshade hats. Crazy yet Fun!

I look forward to fashion week every season. Because, every single time I’ve learnt something new that’s beyond the frou frou of clothes and fashion fads. Over the years, I learnt that visiting stalls and talking to designers is more insightful than watching shows on the runway. That doesn’t dismiss the excitement of ramp shows – clothes taking on a whole new form as models sashay down the runway, adrenaline-pumping music and, designerwear that is sublimilaly aspirational.

I once asked Sathya Saran, “How do you write reviews in no time after fashion shows?” She shared a secret, “You visit the stalls before shows and take a look at the clothes.” I followed her advice and discovered much more than clothes. This season I got talking to designer Troy Costa who pointed out that Lakme Fashion Week is attempting to adopt a more ‘holistic’ approach. In other words, under the umbrella called fashion, designers, photographers, illustrators, book stall owners, and writers should be able to curate their strengths without losing focus on the business of fashion.

With a fresh perspective, I walked around the source and noticed a book stall discreetly tucked away among designer stalls. They had books about Jimmy Choo, pattern cutting, fashion through the ages, Indian arts and handlooms, trend magazines and enough reading material to fascinate a curious person who might be as far from fashion weeks as possible.  For the interested, the book stall was set up by Design Book Studio (www.designbookstudio.com). I was told that designer Krishnaa Mehta put in a word for them with the organizers and they got this opportunity.

After making a mental note to attend her workshop and visit her stall, visiting the Talent box was in order. What’s the Talent Box, you ask? It’s the one-stop-shop for showcasing collections of young and new designers. The main show area is reserved for more established designers. I like the idea of young, new and creative designers. The combination of fresh talent and new clothes is an irresistible temptation. I gave in and a white shirt from the label Huemn, by Pranav Mishra and Shyma Shetty, now sits pretty in my closet.

The Talent Box doubled up as a workshop area. I was most intrigued by the Kalamkari workshop. The attendees were told that Kalamkari is a temple art form of Andhra Pradesh. The painter uses organic colours to paint on fabric and the subjects are inspired from Hindu epics. One can identify genuine Kalamkari from the fake by smelling the fabric. It smells of cow’s milk because the fabric is boiled in milk to retain the organic colours.

I was thrilled to attend Bibhu Mohapatra’s workshop. For those like me, who believed that a well established designer earned his credit with talent alone were proved wrong. Bibhu shared that if designers want to establish their brand, it is all about 10% creativity and 90% commerce.

With new knowledge and clothes in my kitty, my visit to Lakme’s Summer Resort 2012 edition was almost fulfilling. But then I caught up with Sue Castellino from Miss Malini who was spotted wearing a strictly-meant-for-the-ramp Shivan & Narresh hat. I stopped, stared and, my surprise gave way to admiration. How can she wear that hat? She walked upto me and playfully placed it on my head. I quickly put it way fearing that I might be ridiculed. And, then she unwittingly said something that completely summed up personal style; “C’mon you, fashion should be fun!”

A fashion week has glamour, glitz and fashion but when there is an opportunity to interact with the experts in the business as well as observe innovations; then the event takes on a more in-depth meaning in the business of fashion.

The Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2012 season was one of the most intellectually stimulating I have attended. Besides the 50 shows in the Main Show Area and at The Talent Box in The Source where 19 designer labels showed to a packed venue, the many workshops and the creation of the Indian Textile Day was a great idea.

The Source also had a very interesting layout with stalls geometrically arranged to enable the buyers to view the collections. The sixth edition of LFW Fashion Workshop presented by INIFD had Styling as its theme with top names like photographer Faroukh Chothia, designers Neeta Lulla and Aki Narula giving their experiences.

Indian weaves and crafts were celebrated with a very enlightening discussion where moderator, Maximiliano Modesti, and panellists, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Krishna Mehta, Darshan Shah, Bibhu Mohapatra, Praful Shah, Seth Petchers, gave their views on how to preserve crafts and weaves.

Umang Hutheesingh’s history of Indian textiles and Stefan Seigal’s suggestions on the use of IT for fashion, gave diverse aspects of the Indian scenario. Krishna Mehta who curated the Indian Textile Day also revealed her experiences while the Kalamkari demonstration was a beautiful display of Indian art.

There was a lot of fun as well as Red Carpet glamour, when Disney Couture was launched with Little Shilpa’s’ amazing designs and Nitin Bal Chauhan’s quirky men’s and women’s wear.

Glamour was brought in by Bibhu Mohapatra, the Indian born designer who is making waves on the New York fashion scene. Bibhu’s collection was a visual treat of elegant gowns and cocktail wear that were beautifully designed and finished.

The Karmik Show was another very interesting concept launched by Pradeep and Neha Hirani of Kimaya fame. The Karmic Collection featured 12 top designers whose affordable prét wear will surely delight the fashion conscious in India.

The seven stars of the Gen Next show caused a creative stir in the industry with buyers rushing to book their collections.

Of course the best was kept for the last. The Rohit Bal Grand Finale presented by Lakmé Absolute on the lawns of the Hotel Grand Hyatt was another great idea. The “Kaarigari” collection was a vision to behold as the audience marvelled at Rohit’s creative genius.

As always I have admired the way LFW is organised with fine-tuned precision by the Lakmé and the IMG Reliance teams. Crisp, well-choreographed and edited shows, prompt information and warm hospitality once again also made Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2012 one of the most enjoyable fashion weeks in India.

Fashion can be hectic and stressful, but LFW is one of the most perfect events to attend, buy and comment about in India. Can’t wait for Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2012 in August!

The glamour and the party hopping and the celebrity spotting aside… Fashion Week is an arena where the business of fashion governs the agenda and much of that takes place far from the glare of the paparazzi. So what do buyers want? Jasmeen Dugal (Founder Managing Editor of luxury style portal www.explosivefashion.in) shares actionable advice from some of the biggest retailers i.e. sure-fire ways to get designers in good stead.

Craft your collections from a retail perspective

Pradeep Hirani (Chairman at Kimaya Fashions Pvt Ltd) offers invaluable advice. “Business happens at retail enclosures though runways are an integral part of buying: we have to see how a designer’s creativity (garment) looks on a human body form and also how coherent the collection is… The garments should be practical while the showing can (if required that is) have value additions (music, sets and make-up) to facilitate an understanding of the theme. I am happy to see our designers have finally understood the commercial nuance of the business of fashion and are concentrating more on what sells and not what yells! I also feel it is better to be present at retail enclosures if you are not ready for the runway i.e. it is better to have a ‘no-show’ than to have a ‘bad-show’.”

Design a comprehensive collection and offer several looks within a singular cohesive theme. Anu Shyamsundar (Vice President-Retail—Evolv) feels “most designers offer only a few product categories such as dresses or tunics and it is very difficult for a buyer to put together a good representation of the designers in their stores. If you have designed a great blouse… make a great trouser to go with it! It is always better to buy from a complete  comprehensive range!” Tina Tahiliani Parikh (Executive Director of Ensemble) reveals she “looks for technical expertise and a point of view in their design sensibility. What is also very important is that they should be consistent in their capacity to produce collection after collection season after season. Flash in the pan creativity is not for us. Moreover, the important criteria are that they need to fulfill our criteria of quality aesthetics.”

Do your homework

Do your homework when pitching to a buyer (studying the buyer list and hunting them down with a look book is not enough). A visit to their store is mandatory each season (virtual visit if overseas) because dynamics are constantly evolving. Whether it is a window display or how brands are divided throughout the store… you should be aware of it and form a fair idea of where you would like to see your collection inside the store. Study the genre of labels exhibited, the ones you want your label to be associated with and the pricing. Understanding pricing is crucial because though your product may be a fit aesthetically it has to fit within their pricing structure so that it will sell! This research will prepare you for an informative dialogue with buyers and show them that you are genuinely interested in their fashion house.

Can you support your retailer?

A fashion house will be more receptive when you work as a team. The retailers needs your support as much as you need them to showcase your label. Ask Yourself: Are you able to give the sales associates a manual to help them understand your collection… in hopes of better sales? Can you host a trunk show to help sell the collection and are you able to promote it prior so people come into the store? Will you be able to chat with the store to understand sales to see what is working or not and how you can make it better? These are all very essential ways you can develop a relationship with a store and are the conversations you can have early on with a buyer to show that you are vested in making the partnership work.

A newbie at Fashion Week?

“Young designers need to understand there is a lot of hard work behind the glamour. I would advise them to work towards establishing an independent point of view, which can stand out amongst the scores of labels present in the market today. They need to develop the USP of their collections and from a business perspective they need to find the right retail and business partners and be committed to their work,” says Tina Tahiliani Parikh.

Jignasa Shah (Head of Dress Designing and Garment Manufacturing, Sophia College) stresses on business ethics. “Aspiring designers should not avoid hard work and must develop a professional attitude. The pitfalls they must avoid are that though they can be as creative as possible their designs should be commercially viable… they should always keep business ethics in mind… and they should design garments which do not have only cosmetic beauty but are practical, durable and affordable.”

I love the excitement innovations and the fashionable buzz that surrounds every season of Lakmé Fashion Week and since it is the pioneer of fashion events, there is always that element of constant change and amazing new additions that create the glitz and glamour for this important happening.

Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2012 is going to be another path breaking five days that I am eagerly looking forward to. Just imagine 83 designers will showcase their best work for the coming season, while the seven Gen Next designers once again mentored by Aki Narula will dazzle on the ramp and move onto the successful path of the fashion business like many of their predecessors have done. The Gen Next Show is the hunting ground for the best new designers and Lakmé Fashion Week pioneered this concept in 2006.

Last year The Source was buzzing with activity with media and buyers making a beeline for it. This season the 20 ramp shows will keep everyone glued to the venue.

Over 40 ramp shows will keep the connoisseurs of style shuttling between the Main Show Area and The Source as they make their selections that will go on the racks next season.

The Indian Textile Day curated by top textile and fashion expert, Krishna Mehta is something I want to visit and observe carefully. After all the distinct beauty of Indian fashion is the traditional textile treasures which in turn set the country’s designers apart from the rest of the world.

The sixth edition of the Fashion Workshop will see a lot of brain storming amongst the industry’s fashion stalwarts while the live streaming of LFW TV will keep the world informed about this great fashion event.

The sexy, glamorous and very talented Nina Manuel has been a favourite TV anchor and she is going to keep the momentum of Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2012 in top gear as she interviews celebs and designers.

The show I am also looking forward to   by New York’s whiz kid, Bibhu Mohapatra who grew up in Orissa and is causing a fashion riot in the USA with his superb evening wear. Launched in 2009, Bibhu Mohapatra won the Women’s Apparel 2010 Rising Star Award after which many accolades followed. It’s great to hear that an Indian designer is shaking the American fashion world.

Of course the best has to be kept for the last. Rohit Bal, India’s Master of Haute Couture Chic will leave the country awestruck with his Grand Finale presentation as the curtain comes down on this spectacular show. At Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011 Rohit Bal opened the event with his off-site show titled “Shaanti” which left the audience deliriously enchanted. On March 6^th Rohit Bal’s Grand Finale for Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2012 will undoubtedly surpass all his previous presentations.

I am counting the days for March 2 2012. Please let Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2012 begin!!!

Designers have brilliant inspiration (Banyan tree), creative design aesthetic (weaving wooden carving into the garments) and The Gen Next category at Lakme Fashion Week is exceptionally important and where I have witnessed many a miracle. There is so much young talent that needs to be supported and nurtured to ensure we are building brands and businesses for the future. Last night I poured over the sketches and blogs of all Gen Next designers and it felt great to see out-of-the-box ideas within the realm of wearibility. Here’s a guide to what you can expect!

TANYA SHARMA

I am a white shirt addict. Crisp button-down white shirts are a wardrobe staple and I feel every girl must have at least one. So when Tanya Sharma told me she would be showcasing white shirts with a touch of fabulous I knew it would be an interesting showing! Let’s be honest ladies: we’re all looking for a way to stand out from the pack! “I have taken the classic white shirt and infused it with street wear elements reminiscent of Pop culture. The aim is to transcend the conservative look into a space that is subtly influenced by genres like hip hop, rock and roll and street dance. I have some classic button-down shirts in bright colors and floral prints too”, she tells me. You can be sure now that you won’t see a dozen girls in the same white shirt and that’s a huge plus in my book!

MEGHA GARG

She has wooed NIFT and courted Central Saint Martin’s. Now, Megha Garg has her eyes set on Lakme Fashion Week. Her strongest weapon? Digital prints on cocktail dresses! Hey it takes a special kind of lady to carry off the strong digital prints that left their mark on the autumn winter 2011-12 catwalks and not all of us have that je ne sais quoi. This season Megha attempts a softer-edged look: “I have designed dresses with carefully placed colors digitally printed on the fabric. One of the dresses has been made with five layers of fabric and the silhouette of another follows the contour of the body”. Most editors feel the popularity of digital prints lies in optical gratification. Won’t you spontaneusly smile if you look in the mirror and are greeted with a colourful burst of patterns? There is also a touch of luxe about an attention-grabbing look that cocks a sartorial snook at the style police… so it will be interesting to see how Megha garg showcases this trend!

MANOJ AND VINOD

How many young commercial appeal (convertible versatile garments) this season? Possibly only designer duo Manoj and Vinod: the latest up-and-comers to showcase at Lakme Fashion Week! “Commercially, the collection should be successful as it is designed with low-priced raw fabric and is also versatile as each garment can be worn in more than two ways! We have taken Infinity as our theme… inspired from the Banyan tree,” they tell me. Look out for the rope jacket that is fully hand weaved with wooden carving and the handkerchief draped garments!

ARCHANA RAO

NIFT and Parsons School of Design, New York graduate Archana Rao certainly knows her menswear from valuable experiece at an export house and should have no trouble giving it a girlish twist! She couldn’t have chosen a seasonal better theme! Menswear-inspired looks dominated the past few seasons and the trend meter is now shifting to a hybrid of boyish look-meets-girlish grace. “This collection is inspired by menswear and pays close attention to accidental design like crisp folds and ombre effects. High-tech fabrics are contrasted with traditional textiles for a deliberate course feel and structured clothing appears fluid with the use of oversized garments and soft palette”, says Archana. Indeed, there is something appealingly easy about the looks in her sketches—you might want to start making a little more space in your closet now!

SHIKHA AND VINITA

There is nothing simple about this designer duo’s collection. Pushing the envelope on their very first Fashion Week outing, it would be interesting to see how these girls bring the complex multi-layered theme to life. Just ask Shikha and Vinita and the excitement is plain: “We like using simple materials and teasing out-of-the-box designs out of them! The designs must be wearable and at the same time take a leap in aesthetics. Using the butterfly metamorphosis as a theme, our collection is an allegory of the transition and creation of a new style of design and sub culture…” Look out for the knot dress under a cape that glows in dark signifying the possibilities that the future holds for the butterfly being formed within the chrysalis and the cocktail dress with a structured back and shoulders and a sheer draped lower,which represent a developed butterfly!

YOGESH CHAUDHARY

This young man has several credits. After graduating from NIFT with a specialization in knitwear and Masters at NID, he was awarded ‘Emerging Designer’ at Van Heusen Men’s Week and was the first Asian to bag Supreme Award at the World of Wearable Art, New Zealand. His winning garment ‘Loops’ (2010) and ‘Juxta’ (2011) were acquired for display at the World of Wearable Art Museum! “I am a firm believer of wearability in fashion. My theme is “In A Box”: a ready-to-wear line of separates, dresses and few Indian pieces focusing on box-pleats with stripes. Since I am a big fan of crafts, one of my outfits pays a tribute to the mirror work technique from Gujarat and is made solely of mirrors while another favorite is a dress crafted from the finest cotton in powder-blue stripes and asymmetric hem with a box-pleated trail and in it is almost homage to ’60s futurism,” he tells me with a gleam in his eyes.

Remember these names, people! Don’t miss their incredible designs!