Archive for the ‘Business of Fashion’ Category

FERN MALLIS BLOG – Day 5
March 11th, 2010 by Fern Mallis
Fern Mallis

LFW’s Resort/Summer 2010′s last day got off to a great start!!
The ACCESSORY DESIGNER SHOW began with Eina Ahluwalia ‘s “Breathing Space” and was divided into two sections. The “Truth” offered the most exquisite agate and fretwork in silver combined with semi precious stones while “Sunset in Nice” integrated brightly colored ombre’d scarves as the basic element with silver elements bringing together fabric with metal to give a new perspective to necklaces.

Sonali Dalwani of Crimzon was inspired by the Papillion (butterfly) for her collection of jewelry, shoes, bags and belts with the butterfly motifs flying on the bags and necklaces. The color range included green, purple, blue, red, orange and yellow

Suhani Pittie’s “The Grunge Begum” collection was ‘spot-on’ sophisticated and chic. It ranged from Hyderabadi Jhumkas, kasulaperu old coins, Nawabi insets and carved wood blocks on copper, silver and dull gold metal to chains, zipper fabric and vintage motifs for the fabulous necklaces, cuffs, earrings and revived the anklets.? While totally Indian in its references ?and elements- it would be equally at home every fashionable city around
The world.

Debarun Mukherjee proved that a designer can be inspired by anything even if it is a mere Indian snack. His “Miracle Mix”, inspired by the tasty chanachur or Bombay Mix, a Kolkata snack was a creative blend of the rustic with a contemporary. delightful mélange of silhouettes.
With a title like ‘Is This Love’, Nidhi and Divya Gambhir for their Walnut label collection had elegant mini cocktail dresses in simple silhouettes with maximum structuring.
The hand painted organzas in shades of black and white with subtle tones of purple, teal, grey and crème made the dresses ready for Christies auction block.

Rimi Nayak’s Azure Amour was a Fatal Attraction look inspired by the sea farer’s uniforms. Structured silhouettes, some with drapes were deconstructed, and included an emphasis on nautical motifs and blue and white stripes.

Lina Tipnis’s collection “Istanbul Not Constantinople” included cocktail dresses which varied in shape from trapeze to tent, sheath to shirt and stylish caftan to Turkish trousers. The magnificent gems at the Topkapi Palace, swirling Turkish dervishes, beautiful blue Iznik tiles and the 14th century Grand Bazaar of the magical city of Istanbul came alive in Lina’s collection.

Payal Singhal’s line of casual and formal separates included maxis, draped cowled skirts and ornate tank tops. Keeping to a neutral colour palette of ecru and sand, Payal used dramatic crystal embellishments for added glamour.

A special highlight of the week was the much anticipated show featuring TIGI’s International Creative Director and hair stylist, Anthony Mascolo and hot London designer Christopher Kane…both on the runway and in India for the first time. Presented by ‘Lakmé Studio ‘. Anthony Mascolo’s amazing “CATWALK” hairstyling kept the audience applauding’ while Christopher Kane’s swirling pleated chiffon dresses, expert beadwork, and soft delicate pastel tablecloth checks made this show a special treat for us all- including front row guest Frieda Pinto.

Anita Dongre’s “Jaipur Again”  featured predominantly all white garments that still reflected all the beauty of Rajasthan architecture. Kurtas swirled with gota embroidery, jackets added elegance and class, and the cholis appeared in all their traditional glory.

And finally the Grand Finale….The Ballroom of the Grand Hyatt Hotel was draped with metres of fabrics cascading down from the ceiling in lush panels. Three giant silver disco globes rotated from the ceiling throwing twinkling stars on the already intricated mirrored runway.. A Mykonos windmill gently rotated to the left of the stage while a silver balcony on the right of the stage hosted Medieval Punditz Shai’r and Func spinning the most exciting disco and dance beat music for the show. Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2010 featured Suneet Varma’s Night Fever extravaganza… inspired by LAKMÉ’S NIGHT FEVER Summer 2010 collection. The five segments included:Color My World, Call of the Wild pucci Prints, Preppy Argyle. and last, but definitely not least was- The Bold and the Beautiful.
This festive, colorful, entertaining show ended with the three beautiful Faces of Lakme dancing with Suneet to the Bee Gees catchy “Night Fever” in a swirl of silver mylar confetti that engulfed the venue…..and then we all dnaced on to the glorious after-party at China House.
This wrapped up the first ever “Summer/Resort ” collections on a high note…which is exactly how it should conclude! Congratulations to all the designers for a great week, and to all the models, choreographers, producers, staff, volunteers and all who took part in making this one of the best Lakme Fashion Weeks ever!

FERN MALLIS BLOG – Day 4
March 10th, 2010 by Fern Mallis
Fern Mallis

PURVI DOSHI’S collection brought together a mix of culture and craft in a collection titled “Kahchindo” (Gujarati for Chameleon), and it was exactly that… as most of the garments changed their shapes and colours with draw strings and rope pull details- making many skirts and dresses look like curtains or window shades that can go up and down.

SHASHIKANT NAIDU’s inspiration was the Goddess Parvati and was dedicated to fashionable women around the globe. Using comfortable cotton, mul, and tussar, Shashikant’s beautiful muted prints and caftan shapes made a great impact. 

MASABA GUPTA’s collection aptly called “Chhalni” and was a terrific follow up to her exciting debut show last season. With a breezy line of layered women’s and men’s casual wear in bright, happy colors, prints and embroideries…they were the ultimate resort clothes. Masaba loves the beauty of tribal Banjaran women and her use of crushed muls, net and ikat with silk reflected their art.

MYOHO BY KIRAN & MEGHNA AGARWAL presented beautiful clothes in a collection titled “The Butterfly Effect”. Soft and feminine the creations floated around the models in fabrics as light as air. Delicate appliqués on silk, and prints of beautiful floral motifs, in kaleidoscopic colours like electric blue and fuchsia were embellished with shimmering gold appliqués.

NEHA AGARWAL’s trendy and sporty “Games People Play” was a spirited collection! Prints included kites and trees, and special “team” numbers.

PAROMITA BANERJEE offered a refreshing and youthful collection. It was an ode to Bengal and the handlooms of India, called “The Laal Paar and Other Stories”. The looks revolved around muls, khadi, handlooms, silks, tussars, chanderi, gamchas, mixing and matching prints – of delicate florals, birds and a rooster. My favorite however had a big softly blurred Rothko-esque red circle on the front.

RIMZIM DADU’S meticulous and intricate weaves of leathers, faux leathers, zippers, metallic rings, shredded jerseys and chiffons and sequins…was presnted on some very ‘Mad Max’ models on work boots…but it couln’t take anything away from ther superb and clever workmanship, executed almost entirely on black, with accents of royal blue.

KALLOL DATTA had a audience of fashion fans (including me) wearing his clothes to his show. With rather grim descriptions, his collection titled ‘Remission fall 2010′ included groups called, suicide series, prison slate and road kill- and my favorite- Kitty Kat. His unconventional creative style continues to impress with unique shapes and construction, bold screen prints and this time a colour range of predominantly black backed with shades of green, white, flesh and studied red.

ANAND KABRA was inspired by mytholgy for a beautiful, yet dark collection. “She Was so Dark That She Was Blue” revolved around Draupadi his inspiration. Researching deep into his muse, Anand worked around a colour story of blue, black and nude adding on shades of violet, purple, green, electric blue and occasional splashes of yellow for the prints. Anand had flowing kaftans and wraps along with comfortable jumpsuits and slim skirts.

PHILIPS presented VIKRAM PHADNIS’S sensual collection on a catwalk under Gold metallic chandelier leaves suspended from chains on the ceiling. Crème and black looks were stylish in fluid fabrics like georgette, chiffon, jersey, crepe, linen and lace.

SATYA PAUL’S elegant and fresh collections of exquisite saris, cocktail dresses and gowns was a refeshing treat. Bollywood stars on the ramp added to the glamour of the fabulous show on Women’s Day.  Colours, textures, shapes and prints were in pastel blue, pink, peach, lemon and soft orange, and bright contemporary prints gave the saris and clothes a very modern and fresh look,
while the saris were opulent with lavishly embroidered pallavs and hand painted floral patterns or abstract forms.

FERN MALLIS BLOG – Day 3
March 9th, 2010 by Fern Mallis
Fern Mallis

Day 3 of LFW  began with a tri-fecta of emerging designers. Titled “Decode” Amalraj Sengupta displayed young preppy line featuring stylish dresses and men’s wear in  colours that had muted shades of grey, black, white, pinstripes and touches of blue. The summer season inspired Harangad Singh’s collection of finely crafted minis …and third designer Vijay Bahara presented an interesting collection called “Bonala Nautch”, inspired by the Nautch girls of the north. It was a feminine traditional line with very contemporary touches in perfect harmony.

 

  

  

Anand Bhushan’s “Rust” collections were intricately textured with 3D flowers and embroidery detailing. The silhouettes were simple and basic allowing the surface treatment to take centre stage., and they were better suited to Fall than Resort/Summer.   Inspired by the past of Kolkata and the modern life of the city, designer Neelanjan Ghosh wove a great fashion story with the theme “Colonial Influence on Kolkata Past or Present” and the collection was called “Babu, Bibi Aar Keta”. The designing was intricate with double lapels, trousers looped to shirts lots of drop crotch cowled pants saris with wide embroidered borders teamed with empire line coats or low lapel coat dresses. Add-ons like cowl scarves and drapes at the shoulder of dresses gave a retro Raj look.

 

 

With Boho Resort as her inspiration Asmita Marwa’s uniquely titled line “Maya 0° 36’0”S/73° 6’0”E” was for the jet setting woman. The first group of red and white and black and white linen block checks was turned into maxis, swirling tops, mini with recycled fabric fringe and halter dress with rose knot and large rose appliqués. With colour, style and creativity Asmita Marwa’s Summer/Resort 2010 line will be a winner anywhere and at anytime.

Inspirations for “Let’s Play a Game – Again” by Swapnil Shinde were drawn from a quirky mix of the Hollywood films that Swapnil visualized as “Transformer meets Alice in Wonderland” two diametrically opposite themes. The fabrics fitted the theme with lamé, lycra, metallics, chiffon, georgettes, patent leather, and heavy textured fabrics used for bandage tops with acrylic detailing on the neck, hexagon lampshade style voluminous skirts, artistic corsets, laser cut outs for patent leather dresses. The very symmetrical construction was turned into shirts, pants and dresses. Accessories were dazzling crystal belts, bracelets and necklaces.

 

 

Designers Shantanu and Nikhil entered the sports arena with their new S&N label for Adidas Style Essentials .

The collection called “Motochic” included track pants, shirts, muscle sleeve and body hugging Tees. skirts, tunics as well as trendy bags, belts and wallets, footwear and accessories.  The entire collection was in (NYC) taxi cab yellow, black and white….and was presented on a runway/roadway, with flashing lights, road detours and the white line down the middle– keeping the models in and out of the traffic.–

 

Known for her colourful, wearable, party clothes over the decades, Malini Ramani’s Grey Goose presented show along with the appropriate cocktails for the various stops on her resort tour….did not disappoint!  The sexy seductive creations with the love goddess look were inspired by different exotic locales..and ended in glamorous gold Mumbai…with Bombalicious ladies walking the ramp.  The clothes dazzled with mirrors and hand embroideres and on fabrics ranging from georgette to stylish Lycra and jersey in pink, fuchsia, turquoise, aqua, beige and sunny yellow.

 

 Killer Jeans, creators of best selling denim collections for over two decades brought onto the fashion catwalk ace designer, Narendra Kumar. The show opened with Sara Jane Dias, Miss India 2007 in a white gown with black geometric appliqués on the bodice. The denim looks that followed included an unconventional avatar with washes, textures and body hugging shapes. Sprayed, laminated, bleached and coloured, the denim was shredded, dyed and patched. .

The show wrapped up with Nari taking the final bow wearing a long black wig with a bang.

FERN MALLIS BLOG – Day 2
March 7th, 2010 by Fern Mallis
Fern Mallis

Day 2:

There is one show at Lakme Fashion Week that has helped to define and shape LFW…and in turn the future of Indian Fashion…It is the GenNext show which has created a platform, and an opportunity for a new crop of designers and each season…it has delivered in spades.  Those of us who have been coming to LFW over the years have  had the privilege of watching these eager, ambitious and creative young talents grow,  develop and succeed in this fickle fashion world.   For Resort/Summer 2010 eight promising new talents showed us their unique vision.  From Vipin Batras’ psychedelic swirling knit dresses, to Sukhwant & Aastha’s patchwork blousons of houndstooth, jute roping, beige and greys. Sougat Paul made elegant and memorable cocktail dresses with piping, and silk wrapped strips, sections, woven and laced intricate details in purples and blacks and a lovely raspberry.  Surbhi Chawla pleaed, draped and tucked his flowing fabrics,,,and made an elegant whit laticey tight legging with sexy blousy tunic.  Sandeep Sarkar saw the sun with a bright yellow collection of flared skirts and sweet dresses.  Siddartha Upadhyaya  offered many bright, multi function dresses, and Sabah Khan presented the happiest collection of the day, with colorful prints, and photo printed tops, and skirts that were completely reversible, and made everyone smile from beginning to end…exacty the reaction clothes should elicit….and GenNext concluded with Pooja Kapoor’s grey and acid greens, with silver and gunmental chains and accessories embedded int the clothes…

Congrats to all the GenNext desigenrs…we’ll be on the lookout for your own shows next season!

with  
Next up was a show presenting 3 very special collections…. Accessory queen Little Shilpa has talent and ideas- that are the furthest thing from “little”.  Her ‘Life in Technicolor’ collection was inspired by the Apache Indian’s with perfect overscaled white blouses accessorized with multi coloured acrylic geometric pieces in varying shapes, sizes and clusters on the head, as shoulder epaulets,  on wrists, arms, ankles and around the neck…..?and oh- yes…lots of feathers!

Beautifully constructed and innovatively designed, the beach wear line by Shrivan and Narresh is ready for the best yachts and pools and beaches from Rio to the Riviera and from Goa to Mumbai. Geometric, and sapre, with coverups and modern caftans, the swimwear with its geometric, sculptural forms is sure to make waves!!!

The 3rd collection of the shows concluded with Smita Singh Rathore and Himanshu Shani label 11.11 by Celldsgn, and their interpretation of ‘Fashion Until Death’.?

The Victorian and Mughal Era was represented by Abdul Halder’s collection. Then the Jain theory of absolute relativity was expressed through Digvijay Singh’s Anekantvada collection which used herbal dyes and eco-friendly fabrics.    Green was the theme and message put forth by the designer duo Lecoanet Hemant.  Not only can we save the planet…we can look very stylish doing it wearing organic cotton and poplin, khadi, wild and handloom silk  trousers, jackets and knee length dresses.

Anupamaa Dayal’s collection took me from the front row to the colorful city of Jaisalmer to the nomads of the Thar Desert.   Rajasthan is the perfect place for inspiration and Anupamaa Dayal delivered exotically glamorous resort worthy dresses, caftans, tunics, leggings, sandals and separates in her usual soft and graphic patterns and beautiful colors of spicy greens, bright pinks, blues, and dancing reds.

Nachiket Barve’s “Abstraction” presentation was a work of exquisite construction. Fabrics were sheer chiffon, georgette, organza, crepe, shot silk, Lurex, resist dyed silk and Dupion silk.? The embellishments were organic shapes, lacey and woven and beaded and sequined, and would look great in NY, Milan, Mumbai or Madrid….He gets better and better each season.

The day ended with fun filled colorful resort line and models camping it up and flirting with one another and the audience and the clothes…as Manish Malhotra’s cllection showed his love for India….and his sense of fun and fashion that is meant to be enjoyed…..and enjoy we did!?___________________________________________________________

FERN MALLIS BLOG – Day 1
March 6th, 2010 by Fern Mallis
Fern Mallis

Lakme Fashion Week kicked off the Summer/Resort 2010 Collections with Rocky S…who provided the usual glam and glitz we expect from him…this time in a palette of pastel hues  like  pink,  peach,  nude  and  turquoise  and  then  moved  to  luxurious  shaded  tones  which  finally  ended  with  ivory  and  black….and lots of gold trim and embellishment.  All of it accessorized with diamonds from a new collection ‘Queenie for Giantti’  (a new line from sponsor Gitanjali  Lifestyle) and the well known Bombay jewlery designer, socialiter and columnist.   

 

Babita Malkani’s Boho Chic line, an ode to monasteries and architecture of the beautiful hilly country had some terrific madras plaid vets, and African patchwork paterns.  It was colorful, and very wearble. Riyaz Gangji’s relaxed comfortable line for both men and women’s wear followed with some beautiful dressy white linen looks.

 

Making their debut at LFW Ayush and Shradha Murarka’s “Celestial Bodies” collection created by Ninon Palisse, was an elegant presentation inspired by the heavenly bodies of the universe and galaxies, and the dress that shone the brightest was a Rothko -esque full skirted cocktail dress which ombre’d from black to purple to orange.

 

The third show by designer husband and wife- Shyamal and Bhumika recreated the Festival of Colours with their Holi collection. Which for me- was an homage to artist Jackson Pollack…and his splattered paintings.  They made for a clever cocktail of happy clothes.

 

Post the show, ‘The Source’ was filled with designers and buyers interacting and networking at the high tea.

 

Nikasha Twadey’s collection was filled with enchanting romantic ensembles, in luxurious Benaras silk, chanderi, mul, chiffon and georgette which were soft and graceful in shades of yellow, red, rust and coral….and cappucino, chocolate and sunset colors. Touches of embroidery like chikan work glittered with antique details were turned into tiny buds and knots.

 

Krishna Mehta’s look that traversed from the late 1930s to the 1970s for crisply styled jackets, flowing tunic shirts and detailed trousers which gave mix and match options to the wearer.

 

Inspired by the elegant and legendary Maharani Gayatri Devi’s jewels and palaces , Pria Kataria Puri’s line of luxurious garments were printed in a rainbow of dazzling hues, including creamy pearl, smoky and golden topaz, aquamarine, turquoise, coral, red, emerald and onyx. The feminine flowing silk, chiffon, tulle, satin, jersey and Egyptian cotton fabrics made sexy dreses and drop dead caftans….perfect for any holiday, or special celebration.

 

 

Sabyasachi Mukherjee, whose show closed out the first night…. once again proved that he is the master. With a soundtrack from the Godfather to Edith Piaf…his clothes never disappointed…from sportswear to sexy beaded bras, under wrapped shirts, paired wth skirts, layers of dresses, pants, in all the muted gorgeous colors and patterns and prints Sabya is known for.  The beading, shells, trims and embroideries, the fabric wrapped bangles, and platformed, wrapped and tied shoes…it was almost too much for the eye to take in so quickly…but I wanted it all!!