Archive for the ‘Business of Fashion’ Category

Day 3 of LFW 2011 saw some interesting and impactful themes like Eina Ahluwalia’s collection against domestic violence and the Baul singers of West Bengal on the ramp for Babit Malkani’s show
March 14th, 2011 by Fern Mallis
Fern Mallis

Kicking off an exciting day three at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer Resort was the much heralded Accessory show with Eina Ahluwalia, Malini Agarwalla and Suhani Pittie. Each designer brought to the ramp a very unique and personal collection appealing to a wide variety of women.

Wedding Vows… the name of Eina Ahluwalia collection was actually designed with a strong and important message against domestic violence. This was conveyed in necklaces, bracelets and rings with imposing gold  daggers, knives, trishuls, bows and arrows, sickles and even a very grim skull with semi precious stones…hanging from a  long necklace. This powerful and urgent bridal jewellery demands that a Woman be loved, respected and protected by her husband and partner.

Malini Agarwalla took us to a Brazilian Carnival with her collection of handbags, shoes and necklaces.  The perfect touches of bright festive colors, glitter, sequins, tassels, feathers and stones set the mood.  The large gold and silver sequined and brocade bags were decorated with multicoloured feathers, pearls, stones and chains – some with shoulder straps or beaded chains rocked down the ramp. The matching footwear was decorated with feathers and glitter adding to the mood of the collection.

It was a mix of the past with some pulsating urban tunes as Suhani Pittie presented her “Urban Folk” collection. Multi textured and coloured elements, stiff moulded collars, looped multi circular necklaces, wired spheres in abstract forms, horizontal bands for chokers and intricate fan shaped pendants; were some of the eye catchers of the show.

Siddhartha Tytler presented a truly innovative line called “Metalosophy”. Sensuous jersey, French chiffon, embellished georgette, sexy silk spandex, beautiful lengths of lamé and luxurious Duchess satin became beautiful dresses, gowns, tops, jackets, kaftans, minis and shirts. The universally loved black and white splashed with metallic made a collection appropriate for the global cocktail circuit.

With a theme like the “New Tower of Babel” there had to be fashion drama on the catwalk by Aparna and Norden Wangdi. Dresses were draped and flared and wrap styles were cool and comfortable…with a touch of Kimono-esqu shaoes and angular hemlines.  The embroidered, or bearded and sequined graphic words and calligraphy made the collection universally appealing.

Babita Malkani scored high on the fashion graph with her “Iktar” collection. She used natural cottons, Habutai silks and specially texturized materials, the collection had the perfect resort attitude that was relaxed, fluid and feminine. The looks were layered and loose and styled impeccably with ribbon and bells on the flat sandals, and arms of tribal bangles wrapped in fabrics, and chains, beads and found objects…as well as an irresistible array of necklaces, chains, and cords around the neck.  This pure Indian styling was totally universal.

Opulent and Chaste, Debarun’s collection, was a love story created around the simple cotton kora fabric in natural ecru tones. Adding twinkling gold appliqués to reflect the theme, Debarun added floral motifs which were sprinkled over the elegant, timeless, simple silhouettes. Working strictly around Indian forms, there were kurtas teamed with pleated drawstring pants interspersed with saris as well as some colorful Can-Cans and ‘A’ line lehengas for women.

Keeping the ensembles very feminine and sexy for women, Rajat Tangri added discreet designing touches of men’s wear in basic styles. Working around his signature silhouettes, the slim gowns and dresses were interspersed with jackets in luxurious taffeta, silk and organza. Colors were subdued with corals, pastels and black forming at the centre. For a touch of grandeur Rajat added large doses of jewelled embroidery and exclusive prints.

At Rimi Naik’s show there was asymmetry and interesting structures while appliqué panelling gave a fluid graceful look to the ensembles. Resort dresses, a few saris and draped kurtas set the mood. Ombre shading came together artistically with hand brush paintings in colors that were breezy light and ideal for resort wear.

Anita Dongre Timeless presented  a collection titled “Love and Life” in cool ecru colors with tiny discreet hints of rose pink, powder blue and pale yellow.  The runway featured white cotton gowns with tonal embroidery, saris with gotta edged borders, backless cholis, corset gowns with kimono sleeves and diaphanous halter panelled creations. Hints of pink appeared for the shaded creations, glittering silver kurtas teamed with loose pajamas or salwars, Angarkhas, lehengas and pretty pink gowns with shimmering bodices, were beautiful visions to behold.

Shantanu and Nikhil -Delhi’s designing duo sprang another surprise with their newest line, a Bridge brand named “S&N Drape”.  This “Divonics” collection for Summer/Resort 2011 featured sexy, short dresses moulded to the body giving the fabrics an almost leather like feel. The saris, sensuously draped over corsets minus the petticoats, were dramatic.  The runway rocked with the hottest soundtrack of the week, as the front row feet tapped along for the show…

Day 2 of LFW Summer Resort 2011 began with a very promising group show of “Emerging Designers” Jelin George, Pam and Arch London and Sabbah Sharma.
March 13th, 2011 by Fern Mallis
Fern Mallis

Jelin played with sensuous cottons, linens, silks and georgettes in a very pale and sensual colour range… and a great purple.  Added on shoulder treatment, and some figure hugging touches helped mold the garments which were worn with gold lace-up wedges.

Prints dazzled on the ramp in graphic geometric forms with hints of the spectacular Northern Lights. Hemlines stayed above the knees and floral bouquet prints made Pam & Arch’s collection very practical yet immensely eye-catching.

Sabba Sharman worked in a white and gold palette
and magical purple.  Circles of fabric and Colour blocked prints were strong… as was the chiffon stained glass printed window dresses/tunics. While the silhouettes were crisp, the designer also added geometrics and some quirky embroidered fruit motifs.

Jatin Varma followed, with a collection which combined interesting stylish pleating, drapes and ruffles. The trendy minis and Red Carpet gowns were in four irresistible colours of geranium pink, blue, white and dollops of yellow.

Vivek presented an eye-catching group of very wearable and happy dresses in a bright palette of orange, turquoise, red and white…that work both in the hot summer city and at the resort;   The stylish sheaths had the right colour blocks while bejewelled necklines added glitter to the dresses. For men’s wear Vivek stuck to sheer ecru georgette shirts with pin tucks or bib yokes, beach Capri’s and a single breasted unlined jacket in silk organza…which the women are sure to steal from their men. Little Shilpa once again created both collection – a movie and a fashion experience….all in one.  Seven intricate head designs –one can’t call them hats… and stunning neckpieces all featuring a wide array of floral motifs, petals, leaves, ribbons and bouquets…could easily be entered– into the Chelsea Garden Show… but here in Mumbai they are meant to be worn as necklaces, and headpieces. …luckily none of which need to be watered!

From one outstanding collection to another, Masaba’s characteristic colour blocking for her lean maxis and innovatively stitched lungi saris in stripes or dots, kept the collection very contemporary, yet, earthy, rustic and very modern at the same time.

Maillots, swimsuits, tankinis and bikinis that work for pool time frolicking or cocktails at the Cabana made Shivan and Narresh the perfect “Summer/Resort” Collection.   Their looks this season also included body suits, cool trousers, jackets, dresses and kaftans.   A   long regal flowing gown in two tone crepe made one wish for an island getaway.  Shivan and Narresh continue to refine their unique lycra style, colour and silhouettes in and out of the water.

A highlight of the day was definitely Lakmé Studio’s presentation of Anand Kabra’s  glamorous collection. The scintillating looks called “Sleek – The New Mystique” were divided into five dramatic hair looks by Lakmé Studio, along with 5 distinct fashion segments.  Anand’s clothes were dramatic, and feminine, sexy and secure, from tie-dyed-ish chiffon, to small earthy foulard prints,  mirrored embellishments and sheer black, crinkly motorcycle jackets….The collection was bohemian,  international, and desirable on all counts.

Recreating the vibrant look of the 1980s with trendy preppy sportswear and collegiate designs; the Energie collection brought in a burst of colour that could rival the rainbow. Divided into six looks the show was an energetic offering of denim casual wear with details of diagonal zips snaking up the legs, while two tone denim jeans were eye-catching.

The evening show was a fashion happening…and ended the day on a high!! Manish Malhotra’s show was presented against a rustic background of ethnic motifs and ornate lamps hanging high above the catwalk.  The show opened with six very sexy bare chested male models draped in Kashmiri shawls and white chikan kurtas, followed by   looks featuring sherwanis, kurtas and sharply cut jackets with touches of Karshmiri craft or Lucknowi embroidery and teamed with churidars, Pathani or cowled salwars, slim trousers and Jodhpuri pants.The 20 gorgeous women’s creations that followed were opulent and grand in nature as voluminous lehengas and kalidar kurtas in net with silver zari work glided down the catwalk….on the way to your closet.