Archive for the ‘Business of Fashion’ Category

The final Fifth day of fashion triumphed with a fabulous finale!
September 22nd, 2010 by Fern Mallis
Fern Mallis

Atithi Gupta, Manju Agarwal and Smriti Gupta each had their own mark on their collections and began the day with a burst of creativity. Atithi Gupta’s retro-inspired clothes highlighted construction which is her forte. The French word “Recherche” (to look ahead) was the central theme driving the mix of east and west as conceived by Manju Agarwal. Her line called “Past Continuous” featured a colour scheme of black, green and beige in adventurous fabrics. Rounding out the first show, Smriti Gupta saluted the Rock n Roll era in fashion and paid homage to the King of Rock n Roll Elvis Presley. Her “Jail House Rock” collection rocked the ramp.

Jatin Varma’s line of formal wear addressed the festive season with a collection called “Lady Labyrinth” inspired from Greek mythology it was very feminine, fashionable and youthful. With technology and electronics becoming a big part of fashion Vivek Kumar presented an unusual and exciting collection where clothes became accessories and vice versa. His “Circuit Darzi” collection utilized electric motors, sliders and cable driven mechanisms making a strong statement on the state of fashion and technology and interesting clothes to boot.

Abhi and Rahul previously known for their western looks showed a totally Indian collection appealing to the traditional customer. Inspired by the beauteous Zeb-un-Nissa the creations were opulent and grand in all respects. It was story time for Paromita Banerjee when she unveiled her collection featuring ethnic yet contemporary looks inspired by stories of the past. Her clothes had an Indo-Global twist for a more international clientele.

LFW’s accessory show has become a major attraction and this week once again delivered a group of diverse and creative designers. Eina Ahluwalia’s collection was called “Containment” and it was rendered on the runway with necklaces of jars, pots and vases of various sizes and shapes in natural organic stones and glass on luxurious chains with balancing stones on the back for inner balance. Her counter point collection was “How I felt” with specially loomed neck pieces of soft wool embellished with chains and stones.  Malini Agarwalla’s “Flamboyart” collection for her label Malaga was a mélange of pictures, fabrics and shapes revealing the beauty of traditional India on handbags and accessories. Rohan Arora’s footwear designs “Naya Daur” featured handmade shoes in fabrics that ranged from hand painted khadi to leather, there was a touch of Bollywood with Hindi film posters painted on them. A gypsy inspired collection of accessories by Suhani Pittie was created using a thoroughly modern and original collection of beads, shells, stones, metal, studs tassel threads. It all came together in ornate jewellery.

Celebrating her silver jubilee in the business of fashion, the very glamorous and talented Neeta Lulla is one of Bollywood’s favourite designers. Her wide spectrum of work over the past two decades inspired her glamorous collection. Her show stopper was Bollywood star Sridevi in a sexy silver fish tail gown.

The Lakmé Grand Finale was one of my favourite extravaganza, envisioned by the hot and ever so cool Malini Ramani, that showcased Lakmé’s theme for the season – the Gypsy Collection. Inspired by her personal journeys around the World, Malini’s collection was a celebration of colour prints, trims and true to her style the clothes were vibrant, feminine, bohemian and completely wearable for a wide variety of clients all over the world.  The looks on the ramp were complemented with spectacular make ups featuring the new products from Lakmé Gypsy Collection which added to the glamour and spirit of the fabulous factor clothes.

What a great week it was, filled with colour, style, glamour and drama. LFW showcased design talent from Emerging designers, to Gen Next, to Gen Next’s now group show, to the iconic and Established! An ode to the world of fashion, Lakmé Fashion Week – continues to shine on!

See you next season!

Day 3 continued a Fashion Extravaganza
September 20th, 2010 by Fern Mallis
Fern Mallis

India’s pioneer platform promoting design talent truly lived up to its expectation, Day 3 showcased renowned designers and companies like Satya Paul, Anupamaa, Nachiket Barve, Nandita Thirani, Rajat K Thirani and recent newcomers in fashion like Masaba Gupta and Purva Doshi.

The day opened up with throbbing beat of a Nan khatai Indian wedding band as models in contemporary Indian attire walked onto the ramp from the XXX pit area to the pulsating “Choli Ke Peeche”, immortalized by mother Neena Gupta in Khalnayak. The festive collection took its cues from her signature line and was directed to the thinking bride who is also flamboyant and adventurous; she would love to wear a Masaba Gupta piece.

Another talented young designer of this New Age is Purvi Doshi. She blended together the rustic charm of traditional India with the beauty and glamour of modern fashion for her collection titled “Bheed Bhaad” (which means Crowd) was a mélange of colours, shapes and forms, tied together in playful fabrics, bundles of tiny toys and Indian .

A great mix of glittery couture with touches of sporty elements that came together in the collection by Arpan Vohra. The skirts and maxi dresses were largely inspired by the glamorous era of the 1950s and 60s; Arpan also brought a modern 21st century touch to the sari and blouse.

Debarun Mukherjee’s “Dear Imagination” collection inspired by a social cause of the same name was apparent in beautiful ensembles, eclectic mix of shapes, patterns, colours, fabrics and embellishments from around the globe.

Sanjay Hingu’s customers will look young and trendy and the centre of attraction wherever they go. Sanjay’s clothes were built and inspired by blocks, construction work and buildings under renovation.

Anupamaa Dayal moved from resort and holiday into a more dazzling and glamorous realm of the Mughal era. The “Bronze Begum” collection was inspired by the Mughal jewels in the Museum at Singapore and set Anupamaa’s juices flowing. She dreamt up and created a great collection for a chic Indian bride.

Nachiket Barve’s inspirations titles for his collection are always often off the beaten track. This time “The Magpie” was his starting point and included references from Ukrainian paintings to Faberge eggs, star motifs from Morocco, fossil imprints, tropical sunsets and decadent times in Marrakesh, Acapulco and Ibiza all coming together in brightly coloured, patterned sophisticated clothes.

He also brought Bollywood’s biggest star to his first ever LFW runway show which Amitabh Bachchan seemed to enjoy as much as the rest of us.

Nandita Thirani was inspired by a pretty flower called “Flor De Luna” in Spanish for “Moonflower”.  The pretty blossom appeared as a motif through the entire collection, large and small on embroidered edges of necks, hemlines and sleeves.

Rajat Tangri called his collection for Winter/Festive 2010 at Lakmé Fashion Week “Vintage Romance” as he moved into the past for inspirations ranging from Grecian to Victorian silhouettes.

Satya Paul’s fashion prediction came from the cards “The Bridal Tarot Line” was mystical, mysterious and reflected the tarot cards. The famed tarot symbols like Empress, Lovers, Wands and Chariots were turned into fabrics created by Puneet Nanda, the talent behind the creations. His stunning saris are ready-to-wear for a walk down the aisle. The very talented Bollywood star, Shruti Haasan scorched the ramp and ended the day on the much deserved high!

LFW Winter Festive 2010: Day 2 – takes the fashion quotient high
September 19th, 2010 by Fern Mallis
Fern Mallis

Day 2 at LFW was indeed optimistic with Amalraj Sengupta, Harangad and Shrivan Naresh. Amalraj’s collection weaved a tale “From the Ruins of the World War 2”. Harangad Singh’s innovative fabrics incorporated stylish cocktail in fluid silks of deep shades creating the “Khumor” collection meaning deep ecstasy in Persian. The “Gynoid” collection by Shrivan Naresh was dedicated to the fantasy women of the future. The sensational lycra swim wear and wraps belong on the chicest beaches and resorts in the world!!

Babita Malkani’s show took a journey to Cappadocia in the mountain province of Turkey. The collection named “Irzina Kara” or “Ravishing Earth” reflected the rugged beauty of the region’s colours with earthy tones, asymmetric forms and folds of the mountains were beautifully recreated in the silhouettes of the garments which marked bohemian touch. Vivek Karunakaran’s collection “Urban Vagabond” was aimed at the globetrotting men and women. With touches of masculinity and sexy femininity, Vivek’s creations were tailored with heavy washes and deconstructed looks. Colours were powerful yet just right for the season as crimson, grey and black played around with aubergine, and wild rose for washed and crushed silks satins, georgettes, taffetas, and silk gauze with interesting digital prints.

Taking the audience into her very artistic and bold world, Little Shilpa presented some cloud like wrapped bodies and headdresses of pastel tulle with her signature molded plastic perfect flowers and sculptural adornments and lace under Lucite necklaces. There are no limits to her creativity. Sailex Ngairangbam gave an interesting twist to red carpet women’s wear with his collection of romantic dresses and gowns for girls who want to reveal their total feminine charms appropriately named “Fallen Angel”. The designing duo Shradha Murarka and Ninon Palisse, under their label Vizyon created sexy feminine and beautiful dresses. Their collection called “Enchanting Nymphs” was colorful and imminently wearable and desirable for a woman who loves to dress up and get out of town.

Lakmé Studio Showcased the Catwalk by TIGI collaborative show with Arjun Saluja’s label Rishta. Focused on a line inspired by the Budo rebellion of the Japanese underground, this collection called “Resurrection” Arjun displayed the dark mystical side of fashion with stunning clarity. The sleek shining straight hairstyles created by TIGI European Creative Education Director, Akos Bodi, complemented the architecturally bold clothes.

A highlight of LFW since its inception has been its “Gen Next” show. Over the past five years a whole new crop of young talent has been discovered and launched. To debate this milestone ten of the best came together on one runway with a highly edited selection of five looks each. The “Gen 10” included Aneeth Arora, Anuj Sharma, Kallol Dutta, Kunal Rawal, Nachiket Barve, Nitin Bal Chauhan, Rahul Mishra, Rimzhim Dadu, Sailex Ngairangram and Swapnil Shinde showcased to the entire fashion fraternity at the Grand Hyatt how significant and rewarding the this platform has become.

Ritu and Amrish Kumar’s debut newest prêt line. The label ended the second day of Lakmé Fashion Week Winter Festive 2010. This season was the first time for Kumar at LFW and proved entire fashion fraternity at the Grand Hyatt  how significant and rewarding this platform has become. The Label collection designed by Ritu’s son Amrish, “Summer Collections” provided great sultry evenings clothes for women when the mercury is high and the inspiration for the collection delivered.

Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2010 kick starts with Gen Next
September 18th, 2010 by Fern Mallis
Fern Mallis

Opening the season with a spectacular display of Gen Next designs, Lakmé Fashion Week has truly lived up to its promise. Reinforcing the title of being the ultimate platform in promoting and nurturing young talent, the show played the perfect precursor to the season.

The sensational opening show was very creative and ultra New Age collections by the six Gen Next designers were applauded enthusiastically by the audience. Fazal Mahmood and Akansha Arora gave the season a mixed bundle of colours which ranged from blue to the warm and cool shades of grey and black, the designing duo gave a new edge to trims placement and added digital prints which were quite unconventional for their all men’s wear futuristic line. Jelin George’s collection was inspired by the power dressing era of the 80s when majestic icons like Grace Jones ruled the world, it reflected extended shoulders, rigid silhouettes and crisp lines. Juilee Bendkale’s women’s wear label Zuilee was a mix of the modern with large doses of the global touch. Pragya and Megha Samor, this mother-daughter duo created a prêt look which had a pleasant mix of ethnic and western wear. “The Daily Rag” showcase was multi layered and very trendy. Riddhi and Siddhi Mapxencar’s deconstruction took on a fashionable look with a collection inspired by the renowned architect Daniel Libeskind. Ruchika Sachdeva stuck to tailoring, lots of structuring with a bit of futuristic touches, some embellishments and surface detailing was juxtapositioned, and the line of women’s wear was ideal for the modern lady who wants something out of the ordinary.

Ethnic India comes forward

The theme for Abhishek Dutta’s collection was very unusual – the farmers’ protest against the British for the cultivation of indigo titled “Neel Bidroho” and it featured indigo and natural dyes.

Soumitra Mondal gave an earthy ethnic touch to fashion and promoted the fabric of freedom – “Khadi” in an imaginative manner and style.

From the design studio table of Asmita Marwa came “Evolution of Maya” as her theme at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2010. Aimed at the free spirited globe trotter and bohemian who at heart wants no boundaries for her dressing.

Digvijay Singh for Bhu:sattva had inspirations from nature, his theme was the rare Rafflesia flower with the collection having an unusual name of “Tidak Ada Lagi” meaning “there are not many left” (in Malay). Staying true to his theme, the silhouettes of the collection were inspired by the flower but with an Indian touch.

Drama takes centre stage

Krishna Mehta presented a stunning collection of dramatic haute couture, and teamed the crafts of yesteryear with current innovations in dyeing, printing and texturing techniques. Dwelling into her fashionable archives, Krishna presented a strong line of ethnic wear with western elegance.

The clothes featured every imaginable color and print with wigs and makeup accentuating and his many colors textures and embellishments as well. It was a true fashion celebration and it was great to have Manish in Mumbai.

Internationally renowned designer Manish Arora didn’t disappoint. Presented by Philips, the Manish Arora show was a sensational presented with clothes combining an inspirational mix of futuristic style with a robotic feel and Art Deco into fashion.